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Hi to everyone

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Hello, IVe just joined the forum since I became responsible for looking after my daughters Clio (2011 1.5dci Dynamique Tom Tom).

It seems like a tidy car (34k on when bought) runs well and quite frugal on fuel.
I have an engineering background but have also spent many years in corrosion protection so hopefully I can contribute to the forum on some issues.
All the best!

Laguna 3 timing belt?

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Hi, any one got an idea roughly how much I should be paying to get a timing belt fitted to a Laguna 3 1.5 Dci.

Cheers

Renault Clio Stalk Adapter

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Hi Guys. When i brought my clio 4 months ago i fitted a Sony Mex-n4000bt radio, which is stalk adapter compatible. So a few days ago i finally got round to ordering the adapter and patch lead to use the stalk controls, only i didnt realise until now there is 2 different ones, i ordered the wrong one which is for the radios with no seperate display, which doesnt work with my car as the factory radio had a display with the clock and temperature.
So im going to get in touch with Dynamic Sounds and ask if i can swap it for the right one.

Question is does that one yellow wire behind the radio do both the display and the stalk adapter? I was convinced there was a blue one which controlled the stalk adapter.

Also how will the new one wire up?
Thanks

Traffic engine match

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I wonder if anyone can answer my question, are there any other engine codes that will fit my traffic van, which has an F9Q 760 engine, 1.9dci. I have been led to believe that the laguna with the 6 spped box engine will fit, but don't want to part with my hard earned cash before I know for sure.

Clio 1.6 vvt mk3 05 plate brake discs/pads front + back

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Hi all, looking to replace the front + rear brake discs/pads, the process looks simple enough for the front, just wondering if the rear disc/pad replacement is a similar process. Also; are the disc specs for the font/back the same? I can only see one model available for the car. Finally, which pads are required for front/back (4 available from Europarts)?

Brake discs: http://www.europarts-motorfactors.co...005/Parts.aspx

MK 3 Pads: http://www.europarts-motorfactors.co...005/Parts.aspx

If there's a better/cheaper set out there then I'm open to options.

Scenic 2 heater and suspect electricics

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Hi all, sorry I've not made a formal introduction yet, I will very soon.

Anyway, just bought a nice little scenic 2 on a 56 plate as a family runabout after our main car developed an engine fault. Long story short, it was very Cheap with low miles and one.owner from new. It's in reasonable condition and every thing seems to work except the heater and blower / air con.

Now I did get a guarantee and warranty with the car and the dealer has agreed to take the car.back to have a look at. However after Googling the problem nd.seeing it's likely to be a resistor issue I thought I'd take a look behind.the.display.

Anyway I immediately could see that some one.had recently taken the panel off and I found a lone black electric cable.hanging disconnected with exposed copper. I'm no electrician but realise this.is.dangerous. However it's got me.concerned who and why has been tampering and what the cable is. I'm naturally concerned the.dealer.may be pulling a fast one but.also concerned what the cable.is.

As.said.the.only thing I can.see.that's.not working. Is.the blowers. Any.advice or suggestions?


Cheers

Desperate - Please help!

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Hi all,

I have 2 issues that I need to get fixed asap but worried the cost will be too much!

Fault 1 - My drivers and rear driver side windows have stopped working. You cant hear anything when their pressed and they seem lifeless. Both the passangers front and rear are working fine. I've tried the fuses but they seem ok. The drivers is a few inches down and I have tried for trick where you take the 25 fuse out and in and it goes up a few inches when you dead lock the car but nothing, so at present it is wedged closed. What could this be? How much would a garage charge?

Fault 2 - My heating works on setting 1 and 2 but not on setting 3 and 4???? Any ideas? Again what about costs to fix?

Many thanks in advance!

Darren

Timing belt problem

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Hi decided to change timing belt on scenic 2 1.6 stripped everything down removed old belt installed new idler and tensioner when I try to put the belt on I started at the crank sprocket and worked to the right water pump then idler then cams but when I try to put it over the tensioner I just don,t seem to be able to get it on the tensioner is there a way to do this or is there a position to put the tensioner in I used a tutorial that I got off this forum but it does not mention that there should be any problems in installing the belt have done belt changes on other vehicles with no problems before

Espace Cold Start

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Hi, I have a 2.0 Petrol Espace IV from 2000.

Each day I have a problem starting it.
First time engine fires and actually starts for around half a second then stops. It will do this 3 times and then won't fire.
I will then try on and off for 10 minutes giving it a break of a minute or 2 each time. Finally it will start.
Once started I won't have another problem all day, it will start first time instantly. It drives smoothly once started.
The Next day it will go through the same process - always three times it starts for half a second then 10 minutes of not firing.

Any ideas what could be causing this.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this.

David

Oil choice for Laguna 2.0dci with DPF removed

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I have always used RN0720 oil in my Renault Laguna while it had it DPF inplace but now that it nolonger has a DPF (i removed and remapped). Do I still need to use the expensive RN0720 or is there an alternative?

Desperate for some help please

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I have bought an alarm but didn't know at the time it's not a current sensing one and I need to find the switchable earth for the doors... There are no visible pins on any of my door pillars like on some cars that trigger the earth when the door is opened

Does anyone know where this is please as at the moment the alarm works when you knock the car etc but if you just carefully open the door nothing happens as it doesn't detect the door as opened as I need to connect a wire to the switchable Earth.

Thanks
Stu

Grand Scenic Mk 3 2010 - Boot seat belt clips / holder

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I was using the 6th & 7th seat in my 2010 Grand Scenic last night and the person in the boot seats didn't realise that the seat belt was stowed away in the clip, pulled on the seat belt and snapped the clip.

Does anyone know if I can buy a replacement clip or am I going to have to go to the scrapy for the large interior boot plastics that have a clip built into them?

By looking at it it looks like a separate unit, looks can be deceiving I guess!!

Renault Scenic Megane Y reg

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The rubber sealing strip on the rear window has come loose and is hanging off. When it's pushed back in there's an inch gap where the two ends meet. Should there be a clip holding it in place? Do I just use silicone sealant to "glue it " back in place? Thanks gang! ;) Paul

Need help with radio/gps carminat

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Hello, i have a carminat gps and when i power on my car everything is ok but after sometime the screen starts shacking, freezes and power off the gps screen. What can be?


Enviado do meu iPad usando o Tapatalk

Owning a Grand Scenic 1.9dci 2005

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Good morning and hello,

In 2013 I entered the dark world of Renault for the first time and my word have I been busy since then. On the road outside (road surface well preserved by engine oil) is a 2005 Renault grand scenic 1.9dci. Engine code F9Q 812 by the way.

As I found it difficult to find a thread on my own make and model of car I thought others may need some help with this particular motor, I know a lot of these engines are the same but all have little differences.
I have done a few things now on my car and as so many people have helped me on the forum, I thought I would try to help others too. We all have particular ways of doing things and my first post is also the first job I completed which was the turbo replacement. I have also done other jobs including electric handbrake, removal of sump, engine, gearbox, dual mass flywheel, oil pump - the list go on :(

First job then was turbo and here is a bit of background. One night went around a corner and flooring it - low oil pressure light came on and big STOP on dashboard. I did slow down straight away (naturally) and the light went out and everything seemed ok but the turbo was making a noise. When I did stop shortly afterwards I checked the oil level and it was dangerously low, now my dashboard tells me when I start the car that the oil level is ok, and if I press the menu button it even tells me how much oil is in there. PlEASE NOTE this is a LiE, what I suggest you do is calibrate your own dipstick / gauge level, for instance when mine is showing 4 'bubbles' on the dashboard it means I have about 25% on the dipstick and time to top up.
Now back to the turbo, after hearing this noise (it gradually got worse over the next few days and I was being very careful driving) and reading the forums etc I decided the best thing would be to get it replaced, being in possession of some tools and reading some very good forums / instructions I proceeded. I am not going through how to do it all however here are some pointers.
1 - allow a full day (if You do it quicker brill, but don't do it the day before something important just in case)
2 - use ramps or axle stands as you will need to work under the car safely
3 - buy some 'clic R pliers' from eBay (or others) for removing the special hose clamps, I struggled with everything else (needle pliers, screwdrivers etc) and spent precious time with the wrong tools.
4 - some say buy new turbo oil hoses, I did and they cost me £100.00 (your can only get them from Renault), and after removing them (be careful as they are easily bent out of shape) I reckon a good clean out with carb cleaner (get mine from toolstation as they are well cheap) or jizer would suffice instead of the expense.
5 - get a good turbo, I went for a reconditioned unit and it is superb (Midland Turbos)
6 - get some hose clamps (toolstation again) for clamping water hoses to egr valve, and you will need some torx bits (one turbo hose is held onto engine block by one TX45 or 50 I think).
7 - find some space. The front bumper, bits of plastic, underside of windscreen, windscreen wipers etc etc take up some room so either lower the back seats and clear the boot or find somewhere not too windy (scratched my bumper badly when wind blew it over)
8 - prepare to wish you had smaller hands and double jointed fingers and wrists. one of the nuts (13mm) holding the turbo on is around the back of the inlet manifold so it's a 13mm spanner and a lot of backhanded work (you'll see)
9 - clean out the egr valve at the same time (you have to remove it anyway) with the carb cleaner.
10 - take off the left hand engine lifting eye (bolted into the inlet / exhaust manifold) as it gets in the way and scrapes your wrists / arms.
11 - don't get too excited and remove things which are not necessary. Inlet / exhaust manifold, radiator hoses etc - I promise as you proceed you start undoing things you had best leave alone!
12 - if you choose to ignore 11 above either take photos of the 'before' or lay out the parts so you can remember how it goes back together.

I would also clean out the intercooler (easy to undo and take off) and also all the hoses. Check the hoses too by the way because the noise I heard (after that fateful night) was not the turbo itself it was the inlet hose as it had split on the join where the jubilee clip did up. I used some very good heat resistant insulation tape on the top (it was wide too) and it worked a treat, the turbo is sucking here so would have to drag the whole lot of tape in through a small split which is damn impossible.

Prime the oil hoses once finished, or run the engine on idle for a while, as the turbo needs this oil pumped around it as it goes fast and gets damn hot quick.

Good luck owning one of these, if I could afford it I would get another car but it's a shame because they are lovely to drive.

I am now going through hell with oil pouring out of the engine bay so now going outside (another Sunday ruined)

Safrane II Drive Shafts

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Morning all.

My 1997 Safrane (MKII) 2.0 manual is in need of a pair of driveshafts but these seem to be completely defunct and un-gettable everywhere I've looked. (MK 1 versions are all over the place). One side (I forget which) can be purchased from Renault but the other side seems completely unavailable from anywhere. I guess I could get one from a scrapper but as all 3 Safranes I've owned have had to have new ones sooner or later I'm not too confident that they'll be any good.

I hope it's not a silly question and that it hasn't been asked a dozen times before, but - Does anyone know where I might get some new ones? It seems a shame to scrap a lovely car just because of a knackered driveshaft.

Many thanks all.

Kind regards.

Mike.

Master 3 df060

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I have a master 3 2010 2.3, keeps coming back with trouble code df060 catalytic converter downstream temperature sensor this has been replaced by Renault and so has the upstream one. I have looked on another master and the dpf has one in the middle of it and one at the front of it and another near the turbo, but mine has got one in the middle and another near the turbo in addition to the nox sensor. Code comes back after about 3 miles then light comes on after about 30.. Can anyone help please?

EGR Valve problems help

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Hello all, I've got a Renault Laguna 1.9 dCi 130bhp, sport tourer.

My problem is that I clean the egr valve on a regular basis, but once again I find that the plastic cogs have broken in the working part.

Has any one got an idea as to why this keeps happening.

Many Thanks

Dave

Engine removal Clio 1.4

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Hi guys,

Stripped all engine components off existing engine. Old engine is ready to come out. Problem faced now is how the hell do you get the engine out? Gearbox is split away from block but do not seem to have enough room to clear clutch spline to be able to take engine out. Do I assume that to gain room, the nearside drive shaft etc will have to be dismantled to get enough clearance or by taking crankshaft pulleys off, will this give sufficient room? So far it has been a pig of a job and any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

newbie

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hi
new to the forum and hope to gain some knowledge lol
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