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poor torgue on idle to 2000rpm on 2005 Laguna 1.8

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Hi

I am new here and just bought my first Renault Laguna 1.8l 16v -05 and drived only 160000km

previously owned Citroen C5, had good torgue in lower rpm

so my question is: are the Renault Laguna engines poor with torgue from idle to 2000rpm, as just leaving from parking lot only with clutch, not touching gas pedal?

New Member

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Just joined. Drive a Grand Scenic 111 DCI 130. :d

Eyebrows!

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I am looking for the eyebrows to suit Megane mk3! Can't seem to find them anywhere except this site:

http://www.magnatuning.ro/en/product...Speed-Body-Kit

However that only seems to come as part of a kit! :( and I dont want that huge bodykit!! :crazy:

Does anyone know where I might be able to find these?

Thanks in advance!

Funny Power Issue

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Hi there,

I've had a Renault Scenic Fidji 2003 1.9dCi for about 4 years now.

Its never ran all that well (as the engine management light would come on and the car would lose power) but recently after MOT and service it started to act quite strange.

The power was completely gone and when put onto the computer it said the fault was with the EGR valve. We had it looked at but the EGR valve was clean as we'd had a 2nd hand one put in couple of years back. Anyway with no money for any big fixes we had to drive on with top speed of 40mph.

I then noticed that sometimes the power would kick back in intermittently and finally figured out that if I stopped the car and left it out of gear ticking over for about 10 secs then the power will kick in everytime with top speed of bout 90mph now.

If I turn the key off and on again the power will be gone and again and I will have to repeat the process. Local mechanics are unsure what it could be and have quoted me near the cars worth to get injectors and other things I cant remember checked.

Has this every happened to anyone before? Hoping someone could shed some light on it.

Thanks

Please Help. Sudden Oil Pressure Loss

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Hi All,

I could really do with your help. Just had my Renault Megane Scenic flash up a "low oil pressure" light and the car started to sound like a old diesel engine.

I immediately filled up with oil and everything sounded fine and the warning light went off but when I got home the oil had leaked a lot and was very noticeable down the drivers side wheel.

I looked for the source of the leak and the highest point I can see oil is on the top left(when looking at engine) at the joint between the top of the engine block and the main block itself.

Does anyone know what it could be. I am just praying it isn't too awful. Live in the middle of nowhere and haven't two pennies to rub together at the moment.

pollen filter

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Hi,
I removed pollen filter as it came out a piece of plastic fell down where an earth does it fit
had heater blower out is it importent?
Laguna 2 phase 2 2005 1.9dci
thanks Geoff

"SOLVED" Panoramic Sunroof "Whistle" Issue for MK II Meganes, Scenics etc...

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After ages hunting down various ideas on what exactly causes this, it turns out its 1 thing that happens to involve to issues! Depending on the state of your runners and the black tabs that slide along the rail, it involves NO assembly!!
As you may guess this has become something of a pain, with various threads shedding no real light, and the issue.... The tabs being loose in the guide rail that the sunroof sits in!

Step 1;
Open the Sunroof fully, best thing to do so you can see what to look at is to place card key in the ignition, and keep your eyes over the top of the front of the sunroof as it opens.

Step 2;
Observe the front outer edge of the runner where the sunroof slides along the rail, you should see I supporting tab that is held in with a Torx screw, this is one of the possible faults.... Here's where the beginning of the fault lies (possibly but bare with me)

Step 3;
If like me you have a scenic MK 2, you will need to remove the long metal trim that runs from the boot to the window with the roof rack tabs on it, prise them of gently from the sunroof side out, the front and back clips are tough or otherwise they will snap (like I did) ***128535;

Step 4;
Remove the Torx screw that holds the sunroof up, don't worry it should just flop off or shatter, providing you support the underneath and gently release the tab, which now should be able to slide freely without the sunroof on it. Then slide it halfway along the roof, and there should be a nice wide point to pull this link out.
Once out you should see a piece of metal with a hole at one end, and two pins with two plastic/rubber runner tabs attached.

Step 5;
Depending on the degree of weathering these black tabs May sustained, they may need to be replaced, they may be scuffed and scratched, but anything more, even if it's cracked or the black shell has worn, change them! Scout about on the ole eBay, they may be £15 or so for the 4 you need but Renault charge nearly £90-£100 for the kit with these in! They should simply slide off the pins that hold them in place on the metal link, but if it's been on there a while, a set of pliers and a gentle twist should do it!
Once you have the new ones (or if they are in okay condition) refit, and apply some grease, just to stop the friction as they do twist and move on the pins under pressure so will be worth it.

Step 6;
Refit the metal link back into the sunroof guide rail, in the reverse of taking it out, line up the tabs with the rail and twist in and should slide back into the gap.
Apply some grease to help lessen the friction of the sunroof. Now do the same on the other side if needed, then refit the Torx screw to the sunroof by holding up the sunroof, sliding the metal link to the position, line up the holes, and screw in.

Step 7 (the bit people DON'T know);
After doing this, I closed the sunroof, and all was good, no whistling..... For about a week!!
Then after tampering I des covered something....
With the sunroof open, if you look along the rail towards the front, the rail goes in a step down sort of shape or a laying down 'S' shape.
This is the problem, this bit is where when the sunroof is about to close, it sinks into the roof, you will know if this is the issue as you should feel play if you have the sunroof is closed and you push upwards against it from the inside, (in mine, the passenger side was the culprit with the noise and had play or a loose feel when pushing against it.
This is down to the 'S' bend bit, widening over time, with the force of the sunroof manoeuvring through it when opening and closing! You may not see it but it's definitely the issue I found on mine!
To solve this,
Simply grab a hammer, and a blunt object, say a large Allen key!

Place the Allen key or blunt object against the upper part of the bend, and tap VERY GENTLY (the metal is ver thin, thus will and can split / crack if hit violently!), but keep tapping from the top to the bottom in a .5 of a cm gaps one tap every 0.5 cm, this should close the gap between the top and bottom of the runner, now I'd advise only do one pass at a time, eg: tap 0.5cms along from top of the bend to where the sunroof stops and check the tightness by closing the sunroof!
Once closed, push up from the inside of the car and you will see the play has gone!
If so this should solve the whistling!
In brief, over time the opening and closing of the sunroof widens that section of the rail causing it not to seat flush into the closed section and this wind wisp up into the gap!!
Try it, take it for a test drive!
Take it from me, before I did this, I only had to drive 55 mph and it would whistle, I took it to 70 on a blustery day after doing this (today) and nothing! No wind noise, no play!

Simply reclip in the metal roof strip, and hopefully hay presto, it's done! No need to grease or remove seals, it's just a wearing issue! The rails seemed to be made out of a thin alloy that flexes easily hence why I reckon the gap widened!!

All that remains is to try it, and let me know how you get on!
I will attach pictures soon as using my iPhone to do this lol.

Sorry if this was posted into wrong section, didn't know where to post this lol

Renault scenic 2004 1.6l radiator cooling fan problem

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Hello!

Recently there have been really hot weather and my recently (1 week ago) bought scenic makes my life a living hell.

Problem is i think it is overheating but im not sure, screen has showed me overheating only once but my engine has stalled over 15 times atleast, i will wait abit 5-30 minutes and i can start the car again. Problem is ive noticed that radiator cooling fan is not working ( i know its not supposed to work all the time ) one day its working and another day its just like dead maybe if lucky in few hours it will start to live again.

How do i know its because of hot weather?

I can drive easily with steady speed, for example 20km/h and i have no problem, if i should stop then, it takes 10 seconds and engine gets rough and cuts off.

There was one time when engine overheated, car stopped and fan was not working at all, after 10minutes or so later, no keys in the ignition i noticed fan started working suddenly to cool the overheated engine.

I have run out of ideas, If something is unclear feel free to ask me more info. Ive just talked about this to alot of mechanics and they all seem to blame the car brand :D

Servicing

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I've had my '00 Clio for around 6 months now and having the money, I thought I should send her in for what my local indie called a "full" service. The oil and filter were changed just after I bought it, around 6,000 miles ago DIY style as I didn't have the money for a service.

I was told it would cost around the £120-130 mark, which seemed reasonable as our other cars are serviced around that price at the same garage every year.

I've just been to collect my car and the bill was £162! I paid in full without any issues as I knew the car had patchy service history with the last stamp being almost 20,000 miles and 3 years ago (just a stamp no indication of what was done). I presumed extra things had been changed just as a precaution.

Well after getting home (the car is now making a strange noise at revs - going straight back tomorrow morning) I checked the receipt and other than the overall check, the oil and filter, along with the spark plugs is all that's been done!

Does anyone else think £162 is a little steep (£75 is labour)? Our 1.6 scenic was done for £141 in august last year with the same parts list.

Clio 1.5 DCI Towing?

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To anyone who may be wondering what their 1.5 Clio DCI is going to be like at Towing...
The answer is - Very impressive!

Towed this Clio about 35 miles today with ease.

In case anyone is wondering... I've started to buy and sell Clio's which is why I bought the transporter trailer.
Picked that 04 Reg one up for £310, only 62,000 miles and just needs a few cosmetic things (I.e NS Door mirror as you can see!)

BARGAIN.

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Speedo Sensor

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The rev counter doesn't work in my 03 RX4 dci. I have been told it will be the speedo sensor? My speedo works fine?!

Any ideas?

Laguna Windscreen Air Blower

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When I select the windscreen on the AC control panel I can hear a motor move a flap (the air sound changes) but no air comes out the vent near the windscreen.

I looked at the bits in the passenger footwell and I can see one motor move connected to a large white cogwheel. I can also hear the motor move that changes between fresh or re-cycled air. However the motor lowest down in the footwell, near to the heater matrix doesn't seem to move.

When I select the windscreen demister I can feel a lot of air come out of the edge of the heater matrix, so I'm thinking that motor near there which doesn't move is supposed to, but is blocking the air flow.

Here is a picture to show what I mean. Do you think this motor can be the problem? If so, how can I check it?



Now I also looked at the AC control consol and found a component on the PCB had obviously overheated and slid off. I put it back in place thinking this would be the solution, but alas it still behaves the same. Does anyone know what this part is and does? It could be the part is broken so re-fitting it might not help.

Clio 2003 - passenger door electrics not working

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Hi

I have just bought a 2003 Clio. It has had a small bump to the nearside and the wing bumper and door were replaced.

The N/S/F door was exchanged with a door from another car that doesn't have electric mirrors, which isn't so much of an issue however the main problem is that the central locking and electric windows are inop.

The plug on the inside of the door on the car side has various live feeds, although at this stage I don't know what that are for at this stage.

I'd like to work out the elec windows first. Can anyone tell me what the 6 connections are on the window switch are for and what the colour of each cable should be for.

Thanks a lot.

Steering Column Radio Controls

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Hi all

Just collected a 2014 Clio 1.2 Expression Plus.

Generally very pleased.

On the steering column there are some controls for the radio. There is a rotating wheel that adjusts the radio tuning.

Can this be set to just scroll though the presets? It seems a bit weird that it scans through the frequency bands.

Any thoughts welcome.

Scenic II Heater panel brokenm

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Hi guys, one of my kids has broken my heater panel (dial ones) the cold/warm dial is broken. Now I have been offered a new Auto one from a car of the same year for peanuts. Question is will it fit and will it work?

Clutch bleeding issue.

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Done a search and can't find any post with the same issue. We have a laguna II phase 2 2.0dci. The clutch has been intermintantly sticking down. I have bought a replacement master cylinder which I fitted tonight. Trying to bleed the clutch and I'm having a problem. I can get fluid out of the master cylinder but no further. I have tried putting a vaccum on to it and it pulls airtime from the slave cylinder if you disconnect the pipe at that point but if you reconnect it and leave it disconnected at the master end nothing. I have tried pushing fluid it back up again with no success. All I can think of at this point is that this pipe is blocked.
Any ideas?

Airbag issue

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Hi
I have airbag light on and the code that is in the attachment, i took the drivers airbag out and put a multi meter on each pin of the two plugs on the airbag (green and orange) each pin produced around 2.35 - 2.40 volts.
I checked the earth (which I believe is the back of the airbag touching a metal piece in the steering wheel) and that was all ok so the airbag is receiving a live from the four pins as well as a suitable earth, so what could cause there to be an open circuit?

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Engine knocking at low revs

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Hi guys. At first the grinding started only when i pulled off in first gear then cleared so at first I thought it was a drive shaft, then coming home today it got much worse.

I pulled off at a junction thats on a steep hill and the grinding started but this time it stayed. I got stuck in traffic but the grinding carried on and during the drive it started to rumble. upon parking up the engine started knocking.

As i revved it up the knocking cleared but as soon as it idles it knocks like mad and sounds like a tractor (I do have a video of it) does anyone have any idea what it could be. suspecting big end

Clio External Temperature

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I've had my 2002 Clio 172 since February, and I've been slowly fixing it's issues. One thing I have noticed is that it has never displayed the external temperature.

The sensor is present on the passenger side wing mirror, but there is no reading in the car.

I've done a search, but cannot find a proper answer. As there is no display at all I'm ruling out a faulty sensor for now (the common issue is showing an incorrect reading for a fault), my guess is that something is unplugged somewhere. Does anyone know where the connections are in this circuit?

Thanks :)

Renault Master Project

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I've recently bought a 1998 Renault Master with 1/4 million miles on the clock. We wanted a large van to use as we camp alot and I organise and play at festivals all summer so we wanted more convenience.

We use the van at least once a week to get away and every week we add some more bits to it to make it more comfortable, for instance: I made and upholstered some pads to put on the rear seats to convert into a bed, fitted a fold away bunk and currently have a slightly modified fold-down double bed, all this for me and the wife, the two kids and the dog.

The crunch now comes as the MOT is due so once again dug my tools out and started pulling bits out of the engine to clean it up and try and get it working to the best of order. I de-greased and washed years of grime off the engine and when replacing the air box and pipes added some new jubilee clips replaced the zip ties with real bolts (it's obviously been bodged over the years) and viola the engine is running better than ever.
It was retarding over 3k revs and now, once all the air hoses were tightened, a censor cable replaced and fluids topped up it's running well which is marvelous for over 250k miles.

MOT on monday so we'll have to see what needs to be done. In the mean time I'm treating all the rust spots ready for a re-paint and varnishing all the interior wood ie. cabinets I've built in and the floor.

Now to order a workshop manual and some accessories - cab carpet, seat covers, pedal rubbers and parts ready for a service. Nearly 7 litres of oil for the engine alone.

I'll be updating this as and when I get around to doing more as the weeks go by.

I'd love to hear from anyone that has worked on these vans as I'm completely in the dark and never worked on a Diesel in my life. Some parts I don't even recognise.

Here goes - years of happy motoring/camping ahead.
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